The mornings are now cool. Sweaters, maybe even gloves are needed to start the day. Coffee not only energizes the mind, but warms the body. Mid autumn on the meseta. As the sun climbs into impossibly blue skies, the heat begins to build slowly. By midday, the desire to be warm has dissolved into a […]
Not all the albergues on the Camino de Santiago are utilitarian dormitory lodgings. Many share a unique history and sense of place in their community. To spend the night at Albergue San Juan Bautista in Grañon is to experience one of the more original highlights of any pilgrim’s camino. Housed in the 16th century […]
Belorado made a decision in 2010 to celebrate the Jacobean year by creating a Promenade of the Driven (Paseo del Ánimo) along the camino as it passed through the town. It was meant to recognize both local and international people who, through their efforts, had made a contribution to the greater good. They would come […]
Food is ever-present in the camino walker’s mind. When to eat, what to eat, where to eat can be questions posed daily. Should the day end in Logroño, consider it your good gastronomic fortune. It is here, in the provincial capital of La Rioja, that the pilgrim can sample all the wonders of the tapas/pintxos […]
Not every representation of the pilgrim’s passage is formed in the round. Sometimes, that which we remove makes what is left more visible. On the camino path, as you leave Frómista heading towards Carrion de los Condes, this iconic rendition of the pilgrim silhouette stands out clearly against the blue Spanish sky. It stands guard […]
After leaving Zubiri, the camino continues on its downhill march toward Pamplona, closely following the course of the Rio Arga. Five kilometers after leaving the town, a footpath spanning the river appears on your right, This single arch Romanesque style stone bridge (12th century) leads into the village of Larrasoaña. Legend states that bandits would […]
No doubt that Spain is a land of great red wines. But there is also a long history of rosés or rosados. These paler versions are produced in all the wine regions that the Camino Francés passes through. The main grape variety is garnacha, but tempranillo can be part of the blend. The rosados […]
You don’t need to visit Barcelona to see the works of Spain’s greatest architect, Antoni Gaudí. Along the Camino Francés, there are two examples of Gaudí’s work, once in Léon and then Astorga. After a fire destroyed the original building, Gaudí was commissioned to design a new Episcopal Palace in Astorga by his friend, the […]
Autumn has arrived on the camino with its warm days and cooler evenings. What to wear has re-entered the daily conversation when getting ready for your early morning departure. It was only a short six weeks prior that the main concern was sufficient water, sunscreen and the coolest clothing possible. July and August on the […]
For over 85 years, the paradores of Spain have welcomed guests. Originally conceived in 1910 as a way to boost Spain’s tourism image, the first location opened in 1928. The hotels are often located in adapted castles, palaces, fortresses, convents, monasteries and other historic buildings. The paradores allowed old buildings to be re-purposed for modern usage. Along […]